Device Rütger's SCA Combat Archery Folio Back Arrow

Making A Cloth Quiver V1.5, 31 July 2007

Original Quiver Original Quiver

Introduction
  Soon after the first Siloflex arrow was completed it became obvious that some sort of quiver would be needed to hold and transport the arrows on the battle field. There were plenty of designs on the internet showing traditional quivers for archery, but nothing was found which could effectively hold combat archery arrows. Traditional designs were either too small, not strong enough to hold the arrows, too expensive to make, or too hard to make. So, this design was created.
  The basic design is about as simple as it can get. It is just a cloth tube with a circular bottom. The top is held open with a bent metal coat hanger. A baldric was assembled from two belts.

Design Requirements
  The requirements for the quiver were;
       •  Cheap,
  •  Able to hold at least 30 Siloflex shafted arrows (the limit for recent Pennsic battles), plus
  •  Simple and easy to construct.
  Despite some design issues, this quiver met the goals. The material required was just over one and one-half yards of trigger in two colors. Two belts were used to make a baldric. The total cost of materials (excluding the excess for rejected design ideas) was about $12 (2004 price). The original ten inch diameter quiver holds 38 arrows, so it meets that requirement. And, it couldn't be anything but simple to make, considering who made it.
  A big question for the quiver was how to wear it. A shoulder carry was initially suggested. It became clear that there were problems with this; the quiver would be difficult to keep in its proper place, it would be rather ungainly due to its large size, and it would be hard to reach the arrows quickly and easily while in armor. As a right handed archer, a left hip carry on a baldric seemed the next best idea. Sometimes this has worked well, at others it has proved to be a bit difficult to reach with somewhat stiff chest armor. In the end, the quiver was carried on the right hip with the baldic over the left shoulder. In this position, the loading process is a bit slower, but more dependable.

Material Quality
  The original quiver (shown above) was made in the fall of 2004. Despite some severe mishandling, and lots of use in practice and at events, it is tattered but still usable years later. What this says is simple, don't skimp on the cloth. Buy the heaviest material you can find.

Design Misdirections
  A close look at the photos will show that there are loops (actually 4) around the upper side of the quiver. These were intended as attachment points for a cover; an idea which didn't work. The cover was made, but there was just no way to attach it effectively. The loops and cover are not described herein.
  The original design was for a ten inch diameter quiver. This was found to be able to hold the required thirty arrows, however, it did so in a tight mass, which can cause the fletchings of the arrows to be bent and deformed. The design here is for a twelve inch diameter quiver.
  Holding the top of the quiver open was an obvious initial problem. A wooden sewing hoop was put into the first version of the quiver. It worked, but it was delicate and could not be removed to clean the cloth. A coat hanger fixed the problem.
  The quiver shown was not made with a waist strap, and still does not have one, although this is described in this design.

Pictures
  Sorry, but there are no pictures of the assembly process for the quiver. It wasn't until long after it was finished that anyone seemed interested in how it was made. Someday a replacement will be needed. Pictures will be taken then.

Sewing
  It is assumed that the reader knows how to do some basic sewing. Fortunately not much skill is needed. Everything is covered by a bit of hemming and seaming. It is really basic stuff.
  Finally, the stitching will take a beating. Double (or even triple) sew all seams with a good quality thread.

  1. Preparation.
    1. Decide on a color or colors. The cutting layout assumes two colors, one for the side and one for the bottom.
    2. For the baldric, most people will need two belts (check used clothing stores for cheap belts). The belts should be 2" to 3" wide, although narrower ones will work.
    3. Decide if you will also want to strap the quiver around your waist. A waist strap will help to hold the quiver in place when moving, and will reduce some of its bounce. However, it will make putting the quiver on and taking it off much slower. This may be an issue if you want to be able to convert to a standard heavy fighter quickly on the field. If you decide to have a waist strap, get one or two (depending on you waist size in armor) additional belts (narrower belts work well for this).
    4. Obtain the cloth. For a two color quiver you will need 3/4 yard of the body color and 1/2 yard of the bottom color (you actually need a piece about 15" square). For a single color quiver you will need about 1-1/8 yards of fabric. This assumes 44" wide cloth. Buy the heaviest cloth you can get.
    5. Prepare the cloth as for any sewing (i.e., wash the cloth in hot water).
    6. Cut the quiver pieces according to the pattern below.

  2. Baldric Loops (make two pieces).
    1. The Loop cloth will be 3" x 9".
    2. Hem the edges of each Loop.
    3. Fold the Loop back under itself with the underside end against the hem of the upper piece (see figure). Sew the top and bottom together.
         Loop Assembly

  3. Body of the Quiver.
    1. The cloth for the body of the quiver will be 39" x 23". The 23" side will be the length of the quiver.
    2. Determine which end will be the top of the quiver. Hem this edge.
    3. Fold the top hem down onto the inside of the body to form a tube approximately 3/4" from top to bottom. Starting 1" in from the edge of the cloth which will become the seam, sew the tube down. Stop 1" from the other edge. This is exactly the same as making a tube for a draw string on a pair of pants, except with a larger tube.
    4. Hold the cloth as it will be formed in the final quiver (i.e., shape it into a tube). On the outside of the quiver, measure 4-1/2" in from the edge which will be the seam of the body. Measure 3" down from the top. Mark this spot on each side of the seam.
         
    5. At each of the marked spots, attach one of the Loops. Be sure the "loop" is towards what will be the top of the quiver (when the tube is formed). Sew the loop securely, as it will hold the quiver to the baldric. The following figure shows a suggested sewing pattern. Start at "1", and sew continuously through "5". Restart and sew "a". It will not hurt to put in a couple extra rows of stitches along the "a" line. This is where the heaviest strain will occur. Note that the center of the "x" in the sewing pattern should be centered over the marked spot on the body of the quiver.
         
    6. Sew the edges of the body together in a seam. This will form a tube.
    7. Sew the bottom to the lower edge of the tube.

  4. Opening Stiffener.
    1. Get a metal coat hanger. Cut off the top (the twisty part and the hook).
    2. Form one end into a complete, but tight, circle. Be sure to bend the exposed end inside the circle. The figure is about twice the size the actual circle should be.
         
    3. Thread the circled end of the coat hanger through the tube in the top of the quiver body.
    4. When the coat hanger comes out the other end of the tube, push the unbent end through the circle.
    5. Grasp the ends of the coat hanger and gently push it into the tube to make sure that the quiver is fully open.
    6. Twist the unbent end into a double circle entwining the original circle. This should be tight enough so that the two circles will not readily come apart.
         
    7. If there is excess beyond the second set of circles, cut the coat hanger.
    8. Wrap the wire circles in two or three layers of duct tape (you knew duct tape had to be used somehow). This will help to protect the cloth from the ends of the coat hanger.

  5. Baldric.
    1. Buckle the belts together. Use the middle hole. This will allow you to adjust the length of the baldric later.
    2. Cut off the unused buckle.
    3. Form what will be the back end of the baldric into a loop. Rivet or sew the loop securely.
    4. Use thin strips of leather, cord, or rope to tie the loop in the baldric to the rear loop on the quiver. [Hint from experience: Go with cord or rope, not leather. Leather will weaken when it gets soaked because you were too stupid to come in out of the pouring rain during the fighting at Baron Wars.]
    5. While wearing your armor, hold the quiver in place at your hip. Place the baldric over your shoulder and run it down to the front loop of the quiver. Allow enough extra length on the belt to form a loop, then cut the belt.
    6. Form a loop in the new end of the belt, and rivet or sew it securely.
    7. Tie the loop in the baldric to the front loop of the quiver.

  6. Waist Strap.
    1. This is made in exactly the same manner as for the baldric, except it goes around the waist. Follow the procedure described for the baldric above.

  7. Pattern.
    1. The following graphic shows the cutting pattern for a quiver with a 12" diameter. As all but one of the pieces are rectangular, no full sized pattern is provided.
         

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