Making Siloflex arrows is simple, although somewhat messy and time consuming. Once the first couple of arrows have been constructed, mass production should be relatively easy. Also note that crossbow bolts may be made using this same procedure. Simply shorten the length of the Siloflex shaft.
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Stoppers. If using solid stoppers, use a 1/4" forstner bit to drill two holes at right angles horizontally through the stopper about 1/4" to 5/8" from the top (widest part) of the stopper. The holes should be offset slightly vertically and should not overlap. If using drilled wine-making stoppers, no hole drilling is needed.
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Pattern for drilling stoppers
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Drilling a solid stopper
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Drilling a solid stopper
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[Don't use solid wine-making stoppers! No ... really ... trust me! The drilling of these stoppers is discussed and shown above. What isn't shown is what a major pain this operation happens to be. Drilling a hole through the side of a wine-making stopper takes forever, and, at best, has only marginally adequate results. For all the time and trouble involved, just use a drilled wine-making stopper. As an additional note, when purchased by the pound (as is typical on the internet), drilled stoppers cost less than solid stoppers. Apparently the holes allow for one extra stopper per pound.]
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| b. |
Twine. Cut the Twine into approximately 12" lengths. Cut two per arrow if using solid stoppers. Cut four per arrow if using drilled stoppers.
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| c. |
Cut Foam. Cut the closed cell foam into 1-1/2" diameter disks. If using foam of 1/2" or 3/8" thickness, cut two disks per arrow. If using foam of 1/4" thickness, cut three disks per arrow. Use the "Foam Arrow Head" template to get the correct size.
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| d. |
Arrow Heads. Form the head of the arrow. Three disks of 1/2" or 3/8" thick closed cell foam, or four disks of 1/4" foam, will be needed. Cut a 5" piece of duct tape in half lengthwise. Wrap one piece of the tape around the disks to form a solid "plug".
[Experience has shown that an arrow head made to the minimum required thickness (1/2") will not have enough of its "give" after a relatively modest number of shots to make its safety questionable. To reduce this tendency, the heads described above have enough disks to at least double the thickness of the arrow head.]
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Rolling foam disks into an arrow head
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| e. |
Fletching. Cut fletchings from the craft foam using the "Fletching Template" as a guide. As the fletchings are somewhat delicate, cut a few extra.
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| f. |
Identification Labels. Print Identification Labels. These labels should be no more than 1" by 2" (smaller is better, so long as the text is legible). On each label must be the owner's SCA name, membership number, group's name, and kingdom name. This may be done with most word processors. This information is required by the Middle Kingdom and by the rules for Pennsic War.
[Alternately, two pre-formated files are provided with this article. These files may be downloaded from the Files section of this article. In the Word file (arrows-id-labels.doc), perform a "replace" for the SCA Name, #Member, and Group / Branch Name. In the Excel file (arrows-id-labels.xls), enter the owner's information in the first box. The formatting will automatically copy this to the other boxes. Print one page of one of the files. Cut the labels.]
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| a. |
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Head Holes. At the head end of the shaft, drill two 7/32" holes at 90° angles all the way through the shaft. The holes should be 5/8" to 3/4" below the top of the shaft and at right angles to each other.
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Location of 4 holes at head of arrow
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| b. |
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Nock Holes. At the other end of the shaft, drill two 7/32" holes on opposite sides of the shaft. As these are for the nocks, be sure the holes are as directly opposite each other across the shaft as is possible. The innermost edges of these holes should be no more than 3/8" in from the end of the shaft (the absolute limit is 1/2" depth for a nock). [Many crossbows are designed to fire bolts which do not have nocks in them. If this is the case, do not drill Nock Holes.]
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Location of holes for the nock
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| c. |
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Cut Nocks. Starting from the edges of the Nock Holes, cut to the end of the shaft, flaring the cut out slightly. Trim the cut as necessary. Be sure the transition from the hole to the cut is smooth. Also make sure the cut is clear of any loose pieces from the cutting. Additional cuts may be made at the outer edges to flair out the open end of the nock. [Many crossbows are designed to fire bolts which do not have nocks in them. If this is the case, do not Cut Nocks.]
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Cuts from Nock Holes to make the nock
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| d. |
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Fletching Holes. At the nock end of the shaft, mark a spot in line with the nock, and 1-1/4" up from the nock. Measure 2-1/2" further up the shaft and mark this spot also. Drill a 7/32" hole at each mark. Turn the arrow over and repeat this on the other side. Do not drill the hole all of the way through the shaft, as the second hole may not line up properly with the nock on the other side of the arrow). [The Fletching Holes and Fletching Slots must be aligned with the Nock Holes. The fletching should be in line with the bow string when the arrow is nocked. This alignment is important! If the fletching is not parallel to the bow string, it will hit the bow when the arrow is fired, and the fletching may be damaged after only a few shots.]
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Placement of Fletching Holes
Locations of Fletching Holes
Also note nock at right.
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| e. |
Fletching Slots. Carefully split the shaft between the two sets of holes just drilled. There are at least two tools which may be used to do this; a utility knife or a Dremel tool (this is the recommended method).
Common Issues: The slot should be 1 to 1.5mm in width (less than the thickness of the fletching). Be sure not to extend the slot past the holes (these are there to prevent the shaft from splitting farther).
Utility Knife: The utility knife is easy to use and makes little mess, however, the resulting slot will be a bit uneven. Care must also be taken not to cut into the Fletching Holes. Stand the shaft upright on the knock end and slice slowly and carefully straight down from one hole to the other. Widen the slot by making a second cut next to the first.
Dremel Tool: A Dremel tool with a double cutting disk is very effective and quick for making these slots (but very messy). Simply run the cutting disks from one slot to the other (hold the tool steady and push the shaft under it). Use a utility knife to remove the residue from around the slot. Be sure to also check the inside of the shaft for residue, and remove any which is present.
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Placement of Fletching Slot
Fletching Slot
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| a. |
Attach Stopper. The stopper must be tied to the head of the arrow.
Common Issues: 1) A stopper should have its narrow end inserted into the shaft. 2) Make sure the knots in the twine are on the side of the stopper or shaft (knots must not be placed on the top of the stopper). 3) After inserting a stopper in the shaft, use a rubber mallet to pound the stopper as far into the shaft as possible. The stopper should be tight in the shaft, without deforming the top. Do this before the twine is tied. 4) See the Miscellaneous section for help in getting the twine through the narrow holes.
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Solid Stoppers: At the head end of the arrow, pass a piece of twine through two corresponding holes (i.e., on opposite sides of the shaft). Repeat this for the other set of holes. Insert a stopper in the head of the shaft. Align the holes drilled in the stopper above the holes in the shaft. Pass one piece of twine through one set of holes in the stopper. Tie the twine tightly. Repeat this for the other piece of twine.
[Once again ... don't use solid stoppers!]
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Two pieces of twine through arrow
Solid stopper inserted
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Twine tied
Knots on side of solid stopper
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Drilled Wine-Making Stoppers: At the head end of the arrow, pass a piece of twine through each of the holes in the shaft (i.e., four pieces of twine, one through each of the four holes). Gather the twine coming out of the shaft and pass all four pieces through the hole in the stopper. Insert the stopper in the head of the shaft. Tie corresponding pieces of twine together tightly. Be careful not to accidentally pull the twine out of the stopper. If this happens, take the stopper out of the tube and start over.
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Four pieces of twine through arrow
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Twine pulled through stopper hole
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Drilled Stoppers, Positioning Knots, Option 1: The simplest method to finish the head is to be sure the knots are on the side of the tube and/or stopper. This is quick and easy, but will produce a somewhat lumpy arrow head. The covering tape (yet to be applied) may have an increased tendency to split after heavy use.
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Twine tied
Knots on side of stopper
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Drilled Stoppers, Positioning Knots, Option 2: A bit more involved finish for the twine is to carefully rotate each piece of twine so that the knot is inside the hole of the stopper. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to move the twine and push the knots into the stopper hole. Be sure that the knots are completely within the hole. This produces a notably smoother side to the final head.
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Twine tied
Knots on inside of stopper
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| b. |
Tape Stopper. Cut a piece of 1" strapping tape about 8" long. Place this over the top of the stopper and down the sides covering the twine on opposite sides of the shaft. Cut a second similar piece of tape and place it over the stopper at right angles to the first, covering the other pieces of twine. The tape should extend at least 3/4" below the end of the twine.
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Strapping tape over stopper
(Knots on outside of stopper.)
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Taped stopper, twine knots inside stopper
(Note smoother exterior without knots on outside.)
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| c. |
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Attach Head. Use two pieces of 1" strapping tape, each about 10" long, to hold the arrow head in place on top of the stopper. Offset this tape by 45° from the tape covering the stopper. Compress the head slightly with the strapping tape, and be sure it is firmly attached. It should not shift or wobble. Also be sure the head is straight and fully covers the stopper. Wrap a piece of strapping tape around the lower ends of the tape, just below the end of the twine. Finally, wrap a piece of strapping tape around the joint between the stopper and the head.
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Head taped to arrow
(knots are on the outside of the head)
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| d. |
Head Covering. Use red duct tape to cover the head. Cross two pieces of approximately 5" long tape over the top of the plug with the second piece crossing the first at 90°. Cut a piece of 5" long tape in half lengthwise. Wrap one part around the head with the upper edge of the tape along the top of the rubber stopper. Wrap the second piece around the arrow head with its upper edge at the top of the head. When applying each of these pieces of tape, do not pull the tape tight. A loose fit will reduce the tendency of the tape to split when the arrow hits a hard surface. Finally, wrap a piece of red duct tape below the previously applied tape to cover the twine and strapping tape. This will have red tape for a length of about 3-1/2" below the top of the arrow. [The red colored duct tape is a requirement. The tape need not cover as far down the arrow as is shown here, but the head of the arrow must be red.]
[Also see the Errata.]
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First piece of tape on arrow head
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Tape crossed over head
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Completed arrow head
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[The most common form of damage to the arrow head is a splitting of the tape along the sides. The force of impacts cause it to flex and split along the length of the arrow. While minor tears are not a problem, many become long enough to expose the interior of the arrow, and so must be repaired. The use of two thin pieces of duct tape applied loosely to the arrow head (described above) appears to minimize this condition.]
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Typical splits in arrow heads
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